Motorsport Clutches
Clutch Selection Guide

Clutch Choice


Clutch choice is important. Too light a clutch setup and you'll warp both the clutch and the flywheel due to the heat generated from friction from slipping. Too heavy a clutch is hard on the driver and the engine/transaxle mounts, and the rest of the drivetrain. Keep in mind when dealing with clutches, that are two different styles of clutches for VWs. The older style "inverted" clutches where the pressure plate bolts to the crankshaft and the newer "normal" type clutches where the the pressure plates bolts to the flywheel, which then bolts to the crankshaft. Converting to a later 02A gearbox is how many of the older cars are getting to use the newer stronger gearboxes and clutches.

Pressure Plates
The pressure plate is the component that determines the clamping load and creates the pedal pressure resistance you feel at the pedal. We have 2 basic types of pressure plates available. A stamped steel high clamp load pressure plate which will bolt onto an OEM type flywheel and our small diameter aluminum multi plate type racing pressure plate assembly which requires a custom flywheel. Our steel pressure plates are designed to support very heavy clutch loads while still maintaining a moderately stiff to almost stock feel. Our aluminum racing pressure plate has a somewhat higher pedal effort and faster engagement.


Clutch Disks


The clutch disk is where you have the most choices to make. Rigid vs. sprung center, and number of pads are factors you will need to consider.

Spring Center Disks feature springs in the clutch disk center to relieve some of the driveline vibration. Contrary to many opinions, the springs do not stop clutch chatter or make engagement softer!. They are there to prevent the engine vibrations from being sent through the gearbox undamped. These vibrations can cause spline wear and gear noise. If you are idling the car for extended periods or if the car sees any street use, a sprung center disk is recommended. In hard competition use, the springs can sometimes fail.

Solid Center Disks feature rigid clutch disk centers that make engagement faster and the disk nearly unbreakable. A solid disk is lighter and also will retain less heat which may result in longer disk life. Unsprung disks can support more torque, and will allow faster shifts due to the reduced inirtia and lack of spring "take up". For any racing application we always recommend un-sprung disks.

How many pads(pucks)?
Generally, the more pads, the less "aggressive" the disk is. There is more point pressure per pad on a 3 pad disk than there is a on a 6 pad disk.

3-puck disks do not slip, they are either engaged or disengaged. It is difficult to 'slip' the clutch or have smooth take offs. This instant engagement/disengagement is a bit harder on the transaxle. 3-pad discs may require occasional flywheel resurfacing to maintain a flat, unwarped engaging surface. It is the lightest, quickest shifting, fastest engaging clutch disk we sell.
4-puck disks are also for applications where a full race clutch is required. The 4-puck has the advantages of the 3-puck however it is a bit kinder to your flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. A full season from these clutches is commonplace.
6-puck disks are for applications where a full race clutch is required yet where the clutch assembly grabs and chatters undisirably with a 3 or 4 puck disk. Autocross, Street/Strip and Rally applications find the 6-puck disk to be an appropriate compromise. The 6-puck has all of the advantages of the 3 & 4 puck but to slightly a lesser extent. On the other hand, the 6-puck has lower noise levels, absorbs more heat and chatters less.

Note: Due to their exposed surface areas, both the 3, 4 and 6 puck disks will cool themselves in applications where full disks will overheat.



    

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